Arts
Isabella Volpi
3
min read
20 Jul 2025
Fashion has always been a mirror of society. Fashion trends adapt consistently through ever changing public opinion and politics. The feminist movement throughout the 20 and 21st centuries was heavily reflected in women’s fashion as they fought for social, economic, and political rights.
The end of the 19th century looked significantly different to what life looks like today. Women were confined by corsets and heavy floor length dresses that restricted movement. This reflected how women were not accepted in the workforce as the lack of movement did not allow for comfortable workwear. On the other hand, the 19th century did introduce the first of women’s trousers: the bloomer. This garment was an early version of womens trousers which faced heavy criticism and never fully entered the mainstream market. However, it was consistently worn by suffragists who were pioneers of the feminist movement.
Caption: This is an example of what a bloomer looks like.
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bloomers#/media/File:Bloomers.jpg
In contrast, the early 20th century implemented significantly more change than the previous century. While the suffrage movement focused on women’s political rights, it was World War I that sparked societal shifts which contributed to a growing acceptance of women in the workforce. Now, in the 1910s, women were seen as working basic jobs including being secretaries thus making the fashion of the previous era unfeasible. There was a new introduction of shorter and lighter skirts which granted them better mobility. The 1910s also reintroduced pants as Paul Poiret designed Harem-Inspired Trousers. Following World War I, Coco Chanel played a significant role in the liberation of women’s fashion as she introduced more relaxed styles and more comfortable fabrics. It was Chanel that introduced the famous Little Black Dress in the 1920s and later the classic Chanel suit in the 1950s.
Caption: This is the Chanel Little Black Dress
Source: https://www.elle.com/fashion/g8192/evolution-of-the-little-black-dress/
Caption: This is an example of the classic Chanel Suit which debuted in the 1950s
It was during World War II that women finally entered the workforce due to the shortage of men. In America the iconic symbol of Roise the Riveter became critical in inspiring women to work as they were waiting for husbands and fathers to come home from the war. In times of need, women's fashion changed drastically in order to increase efficiency within factories who had lost many workers to the army. The new norm consisted of pants, shoulder pads, and suits. However, after the war it was Christian Dior who introduced “the New Look” seemingly taking a step back and supporting previous domestic ideals as his collections featured slim waist and long skirts. This idea strongly represented the cultural post-war push for women to return to their domestic duties .
Caption: The iconic Roise the Riveter poster which was used to motivate women to work during World War II.
Source: https://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosie_the_Riveter
Capiton: Dior’s “The New Look” silhouette which debuted in the 1950s.
Source: https://www.vogue.com/article/everything-you-need-to-know-about-christian-diors-new-look-silhouette
Second-Wave Feminism rose throughout the 60s and 70s which specifically focused on workplace inequality, reproductive rights and legal protections. Activism became increasingly visible as protests took place across cities. Now, trousers were a common item in any women's closet and did not face significant backlash in contrast to previous years. Additionally, mini skirts and unstructured silhouettes became another trend symbolizing how women were taking control over their own fashion. Ultimately, towards the end of this period Yves Saint Laurent pioneered the women’s pantsuit as he introduced “Le Smoking” tuxedo which empowered women to step into professional spaces.
Caption: The iconic Yves Saint Laurent women’s pantsuit.
Source: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/a43338553/ysl-smoking-jacket/
To this day, designers continue to contribute to the feminist movement through their seasonal collections. A recent and impactful example of this is when Maria Grazia Chiuri debuted the “We Should All Be Feminists” T-shirt in her Spring 2017 collection. This simple article of clothing referencing Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s TedTalk brought attention upon the feminist movement in mainstream media and opened doors for other brands to make political statements through fashion.
Caption: Chiuri’s “We Should All Be Feminists” T-shirt debuted in the Dior Spring 2017 collection.
In today’s decade, the fashion industry is faced with questions expanding beyond feminism alone. Common critiques about the industry include concerns about body positivity, gender inclusivity and environmental impacts. By looking back at history it is clear that the industry is capable of setting cultural tones and creating trends to empower people to make their voices heard.
Bibliography:
« Bloomers ». Wikipedia, 12 april 2025. Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Bloomers&oldid=1285165807.
« How Coco Chanel Revolutionised Women’s Fashion with Just a Jacket ». Lifestyle Asia Hong Kong, 23 october 2018, https://www.lifestyleasia.com/hk/style/fashion/how-coco-chanel-revolutionised-womens-fashion-with-just-a-jacket/.
Ludovica. « “We Should All Be Feminists”- But Only If It’s Stylish And Fruitful ». Medium, 12 june 2021, https://lusvanni.medium.com/we-should-all-be-feminists-diors-way-to-validate-systemic-oppression-d70a7ec9248.
« Rosie the Riveter ». Wikipedia, 18 july 2023. Wikipedia, https://sv.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rosie_the_Riveter&oldid=53609568.
« The Evolution of the Little Black Dress ». ELLE, 11 february 2020, https://www.elle.com/fashion/g8192/evolution-of-the-little-black-dress/.
« The Fascinating History behind Yves Saint Laurent’s Le Smoking ». Harper’s BAZAAR, 17 march 2023, https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/a43338553/ysl-smoking-jacket/.